Oolong 乌龙茶

The leaf is only partly oxidized: light oolongs sit close to green tea, heavy ones close to black. The tea maker chooses how far to take oxidation and roasting.

Oolong sits between green and black tea (in China black tea is hong cha, “red tea”, after the color of its liquor). The leaf is oxidized only in part, and fixation stops the process when the tea maker decides it has gone far enough. In the Chinese classification this type is 青茶 (qing cha), “blue-green tea”. The word oolong (乌龙) means “black dragon”, and there are several stories about where the name came from.

Shaking

Producers first wither the fresh leaf in the sun or indoors, then shake it by hand in wide bamboo trays or in rotating drums. This step is yao qing (摇青). The leaves rub against each other, cells along the edges break, and that is where oxidation begins. The shaking is repeated several times with rests in between, and by morning the leaf has its classic look: a green center with a reddish rim. Then the leaf is fixed, rolled and dried.

Lightly oxidized oolongs smell of flowers and fresh greenery. Heavily oxidized ones come closer to black tea, with honey and fruit tones.

Four schools

Oolongs are usually grouped by origin:

• Northern Fujian, the Wuyi Mountains: rock teas (yan cha, 岩茶) with long twisted leaves and a heavy roast, among them Da Hong Pao and Rou Gui;
• Southern Fujian, Anxi County: the leaf is rolled into tight balls, and the best-known tea is Tie Guan Yin;
• Guangdong, Fenghuang Mountain: dan cong (单丛) teas with a bright floral and fruity aroma;
• Taiwan: from light mountain oolongs to heavily oxidized ones; the best-known roasted oolong here is Dong Ding.

Roasting

After drying, many oolongs also get a roast, called bei huo (焙火). The tea spends hours over charcoal or in an electric oven. A light roast keeps the floral aroma, a heavy one brings notes of roasted nuts, caramel and cocoa. Wuyi rock teas go through several rounds of roasting, then rest for a few months until the sharp “fire” taste fades.

How to brew

Oolongs open up best in gongfu cha: plenty of leaf, a small vessel, water near boiling, short infusions. The Anxi balls unfurl gradually, and a good oolong lasts six to eight infusions. Heavily roasted teas go into a Yixing teapot; light floral ones are easier to brew in a gaiwan.