Tea science 茶学

The bitterness, astringency, sweetness and aroma of the liquor depend on compounds in the leaf, on the water and on the teaware. Most of this has been measured, and the numbers explain why people brew tea the way they do.

A cup of amber tea, a glass of water and dry oolong on a dish
Illustration

Brewing advice rests on leaf chemistry. Boiling water extracts caffeine and catechins faster, which is why it makes green tea bitter, while a long infusion draws out the compounds that leave the leaf slowly. How much of what ends up in the cup comes down to temperature, time and the water. Calcium, bicarbonate and chlorine change the color and aroma of the liquor, and milk, lemon and sugar each soften astringency in a different way.

To compare teas, professionals brew them to a standard and describe them with a fixed vocabulary. In China, evaluation and tasting follow the shenping method under GB/T 23776; in the West, ISO 3103. Teaware changes the liquor too, if less than the legends claim. Tests on material and firing show that preheating counts for more than the type of clay, and that the kiln sets the glaze color and the density of the body. Lead and cadmium in glazes and overglaze decoration are a matter of teaware safety, covered in the teaware section.

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